Sunday, June 22, 2008
Days 14 and 15 Sat/Sun June 21-22: Home Again
Route: Kirkland, WA to Issaquah, WA (Saturday), Issaquah to Home (Sunday)
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#48
Miles: 249
Total On Bike: 5:22
Total Miles For Trip: 3853
Details to be added later.
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#48
Miles: 249
Total On Bike: 5:22
Total Miles For Trip: 3853
Details to be added later.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Day 13 Friday June 20 Arriving at Vince's Home
Route: Kettle Falls, Washington to Kirkland, WA
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#45
Miles: 368
Total Time: 9:23
Total On Bikes: 6:51
Total Miles For Trip so far: 3604 (in addition, Vince also traveled from Kirkland, WA to my home to start the trip -- another 160 or so miles)
Today we took one of the top-rated motorcycle roads in the State of Washington, the North Cascade Highway -- Route 20 -- on another spectacular day for motorcycling -- perfect temperatures, perfect road conditions. The trip got a little long as we hit rush hour as we arrived at Vince's home in Kirkland -- but otherwise was a perfect ending day on a perfectly beautiful road -- a fitting final day for a wonderful journey.
I'm staying in the area for a get together with old friends tomorrow evening and then will make my way to my home on Sunday.
Over a scrumptious meal fixed by Vince's wife -- we spoke with great satisfaction of how many things went right with the trip -- with only pretty insignificant weather challenges early in the trip. Through the hundreds -- perhaps thousands -- of daily decisions of where to go, when to stop, where to eat, where to stay, etc etc -- Vince and I agreed that we remain not only great friends but also very compatible travelers/riders. We already began talking about when we might have an opportunity for another sport-touring adventure!
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#45
Miles: 368
Total Time: 9:23
Total On Bikes: 6:51
Total Miles For Trip so far: 3604 (in addition, Vince also traveled from Kirkland, WA to my home to start the trip -- another 160 or so miles)
Today we took one of the top-rated motorcycle roads in the State of Washington, the North Cascade Highway -- Route 20 -- on another spectacular day for motorcycling -- perfect temperatures, perfect road conditions. The trip got a little long as we hit rush hour as we arrived at Vince's home in Kirkland -- but otherwise was a perfect ending day on a perfectly beautiful road -- a fitting final day for a wonderful journey.
I'm staying in the area for a get together with old friends tomorrow evening and then will make my way to my home on Sunday.
Over a scrumptious meal fixed by Vince's wife -- we spoke with great satisfaction of how many things went right with the trip -- with only pretty insignificant weather challenges early in the trip. Through the hundreds -- perhaps thousands -- of daily decisions of where to go, when to stop, where to eat, where to stay, etc etc -- Vince and I agreed that we remain not only great friends but also very compatible travelers/riders. We already began talking about when we might have an opportunity for another sport-touring adventure!
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Day 12 Thurs June 19 - It's A Small World
Route: Spokane, Washington to Kettle Falls, Washington
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#47
Miles: 156
Total Time: 9:26
Total On Bikes: 2:54
Total Miles For Trip so far: 3236
About 50 miles from our destination yesterday, Vince noticed that his rear tire had begun to expose the steel belts -- making it imperative that he get a replacement immediately. So our first destination this morning was the nearest Ducati dealer in Post Falls, Idaho -- some 25 miles away. Thankfully they had replacement tires -- but we couldn't be first on the schedule -- so we ended up waiting at the dealership for 5 hours to get the tires mounted. There are worse places to get stranded for two motorcyclists -- and this was a well equipped motorcycle store with plenty of new motorcycles and accessories, and a nice waiting area. The time passed quickly as we explored all the motorcycles, including all the BMW line. We finally departed the dealership at around 2:30pm and headed straight north on our original plan to take the North Cascades Highway back to the Seattle area -- and Vince's home.
As has been our routine, we stopped at a rest stop within about an hour and a half for a bathroom break. While there, three additional motorcycles with 4 riders arrived -- and as we took turns for the bathroom, the common discussion of destinations and routes ensued with these fellow travelers. It was truly a small world experience when I asked one of the riders where they started -- and his response was "central California." As I asked him to be more specific -- he said "Fresno." Just as a way of continuing the conversation I asked him if he ever had visited my hometown of Morro Bay, CA -- and he said he went to school there. I then asked him if he ever heard my last name -- and in short order learned that he had graduated high school in the same class with my brother Mark. He then introduced one of his fellow riders -- who also was in class with Mark and had grown up in Morro Bay -- and knew most of my family -- including my dad -- and had recently been in Morro Bay where his mother still resides and visited with Mark and dad. It was really a small world experience as they just happened to be at the same rest stop -- a turning point for them returning from a journey to Canada. We exchanged information -- and I invited them to spend the night at my house if their path found them in the area after my planned return on Sunday.
Vince and I continued on a few more miles and then found a great little motel with a big "Welcome Bikers" sign. After we got unpacked in our rooms -- I called both dad and Mark about the connection. As the Disney song aptly puts it...it's a small world after all.
Following are pictures of Vince's worn tire -- and his new one:
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#47
Miles: 156
Total Time: 9:26
Total On Bikes: 2:54
Total Miles For Trip so far: 3236
About 50 miles from our destination yesterday, Vince noticed that his rear tire had begun to expose the steel belts -- making it imperative that he get a replacement immediately. So our first destination this morning was the nearest Ducati dealer in Post Falls, Idaho -- some 25 miles away. Thankfully they had replacement tires -- but we couldn't be first on the schedule -- so we ended up waiting at the dealership for 5 hours to get the tires mounted. There are worse places to get stranded for two motorcyclists -- and this was a well equipped motorcycle store with plenty of new motorcycles and accessories, and a nice waiting area. The time passed quickly as we explored all the motorcycles, including all the BMW line. We finally departed the dealership at around 2:30pm and headed straight north on our original plan to take the North Cascades Highway back to the Seattle area -- and Vince's home.
As has been our routine, we stopped at a rest stop within about an hour and a half for a bathroom break. While there, three additional motorcycles with 4 riders arrived -- and as we took turns for the bathroom, the common discussion of destinations and routes ensued with these fellow travelers. It was truly a small world experience when I asked one of the riders where they started -- and his response was "central California." As I asked him to be more specific -- he said "Fresno." Just as a way of continuing the conversation I asked him if he ever had visited my hometown of Morro Bay, CA -- and he said he went to school there. I then asked him if he ever heard my last name -- and in short order learned that he had graduated high school in the same class with my brother Mark. He then introduced one of his fellow riders -- who also was in class with Mark and had grown up in Morro Bay -- and knew most of my family -- including my dad -- and had recently been in Morro Bay where his mother still resides and visited with Mark and dad. It was really a small world experience as they just happened to be at the same rest stop -- a turning point for them returning from a journey to Canada. We exchanged information -- and I invited them to spend the night at my house if their path found them in the area after my planned return on Sunday.
Vince and I continued on a few more miles and then found a great little motel with a big "Welcome Bikers" sign. After we got unpacked in our rooms -- I called both dad and Mark about the connection. As the Disney song aptly puts it...it's a small world after all.
Following are pictures of Vince's worn tire -- and his new one:
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Day 11 June 18 What A Day of Sport Touring
oute: Missoula, Montana - over the Lochsa / Lolo Pass to Spokane, Washington
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#46
Miles: 337
Total Time: 12:16
Total On Bikes: 6:25
Total Miles For Trip so far: 3080
It wasn't until we were on the road this morning -- reflecting on the wonderful visit/stay in Missoula -- that I remembered that we had not taken any pictures of us with Teri, Sharon and Chris. Oh, well, maybe next time we're together -- which hopefully will be sometime soon!
As Chris and Sharon had advised us it would be -- today's journey was another highlight as we proceeded down the Lochsa Valley along the road that is widely written about in motorcycling magazines -- and called the Lolo Pass - Idaho state highway 12. More than once I've seen motorcycle magazines with pictures of a sign on this road that reads: "Winding Roads Next 77 Miles." The road is the perfect sport-tourer's dream (clean good pavement, wonderful scenery next to a river, and mile after mile of twists and turns). The ride was, well, exhilarating!
We stopped for lunch in Orofino and soon found ourselves pouring over the Idaho Benchmark Atlas in seach of other "interesting" roads. Vince pointed out a backroad that runs from Orofino through Southwick to near Kendrick (called the Old Anshahka Grade at its start near Orofino) and off we went. What a find! Steep twisty grade to wonderful views -- more sport touring paradise with emphasis on the "sport" end of the spectrum.Other wonderful roads followed -- and we soon found ourselves about 60 miles from the home of Vince's Aunt Linda/Uncle Mike in Spokane -- where we headed for the night.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Day 10 June 17 Reestablishing Family Connections in Missoula
Route: Columbus, Montana to Missoula, Montana
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#44
Miles: 365
Total Time: 14.58
Total On Bikes: 6:26
Total Miles For Trip so far: 2743
The first order of business today was to reschedule the purchase/installation of a new rear tire for Vince's bike to tomorrow. However, Vince learned that a reschedule was not possible -- prompting him to decide to forgo replacing the tire at all until getting home.
Thereafter, our lack of detailed maps/atlases for Montana caused us to rely on the official state map and other regional maps which contained insufficient detail to assess the "sportiness" of our selected routes of travel. So, today ended up being lots of flat land straight driving -- and with Montana's top speed limit of 75 mph, the result was lots of droning! Memories of the Beartooth of yesterday left us feeling like the droning was "worth it," but it also gave plenty of opportunity to understand why Montana is known as the "Big Sky" state -- there is plenty of sky to see when you are on straight, flat roads.
During the droning along -- I did begin to think about our planned destination -- Missoula and the fact that I had a 2nd cousin, Teri, living there (our grandfathers were brothers). I don't remember seeing Teri since we were kids playing together at family reunions -- but had occassion to have some infrequent email correspondence with her over the years about some property our great grandparents had homesteaded in California. I had emailed her about this planned motorcycle trip through Missoula and she had been welcoming of a visit -- even a place to stay -- but I was apprehensive about actually taking her up on her offer thinking that perhaps just a brief stop might be more appropriate considering how little I knew about her/her family. All day I procrastinated (something I am really good at) calling about our expected arrival in Missoula -- my way of not having to think about whether we should actually take her up on her offer of a place to stay. Upon arrival in Missoula -- I finally forced myself to do my usual "what's the worst that can happen" type decision making -- and made the call to Teri and asked about a place to stay. Again she was welcoming.
The evening with Teri, her daughter Sharon and her daughter's husband Chris couldn't have been more wonderful -- they warmly welcomed us into their beautiful home -- and we immediately found plenty of common ground -- such that the few hours together passed way too quickly. It turned out that Chris is also a motorcycle rider (and about Vince's age) and both he and Sharon are VERY familiar with the backroads of Montana. In short order -- and with the Montana maps spread between us -- we quickly learned which roads we should have taken in Montana -- and which roads we need to come back and enjoy. In addition, Sharon has been very involved in family tree research, another topic of great interest to me. All in all, a very fun evening -- and wonderful accommodations for the night. I went to sleep thinking how silly my apprehensions about stopping now seemed -- and how quickly family connections can be reestablished! I do hope to be returning the hospitality sometime soon -- and Vince and I are already talking about when we might be able to return and ride the Montana roads they marked out for us -- and with any luck, perhaps Chris will ride with us!
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#44
Miles: 365
Total Time: 14.58
Total On Bikes: 6:26
Total Miles For Trip so far: 2743
The first order of business today was to reschedule the purchase/installation of a new rear tire for Vince's bike to tomorrow. However, Vince learned that a reschedule was not possible -- prompting him to decide to forgo replacing the tire at all until getting home.
Thereafter, our lack of detailed maps/atlases for Montana caused us to rely on the official state map and other regional maps which contained insufficient detail to assess the "sportiness" of our selected routes of travel. So, today ended up being lots of flat land straight driving -- and with Montana's top speed limit of 75 mph, the result was lots of droning! Memories of the Beartooth of yesterday left us feeling like the droning was "worth it," but it also gave plenty of opportunity to understand why Montana is known as the "Big Sky" state -- there is plenty of sky to see when you are on straight, flat roads.
During the droning along -- I did begin to think about our planned destination -- Missoula and the fact that I had a 2nd cousin, Teri, living there (our grandfathers were brothers). I don't remember seeing Teri since we were kids playing together at family reunions -- but had occassion to have some infrequent email correspondence with her over the years about some property our great grandparents had homesteaded in California. I had emailed her about this planned motorcycle trip through Missoula and she had been welcoming of a visit -- even a place to stay -- but I was apprehensive about actually taking her up on her offer thinking that perhaps just a brief stop might be more appropriate considering how little I knew about her/her family. All day I procrastinated (something I am really good at) calling about our expected arrival in Missoula -- my way of not having to think about whether we should actually take her up on her offer of a place to stay. Upon arrival in Missoula -- I finally forced myself to do my usual "what's the worst that can happen" type decision making -- and made the call to Teri and asked about a place to stay. Again she was welcoming.
The evening with Teri, her daughter Sharon and her daughter's husband Chris couldn't have been more wonderful -- they warmly welcomed us into their beautiful home -- and we immediately found plenty of common ground -- such that the few hours together passed way too quickly. It turned out that Chris is also a motorcycle rider (and about Vince's age) and both he and Sharon are VERY familiar with the backroads of Montana. In short order -- and with the Montana maps spread between us -- we quickly learned which roads we should have taken in Montana -- and which roads we need to come back and enjoy. In addition, Sharon has been very involved in family tree research, another topic of great interest to me. All in all, a very fun evening -- and wonderful accommodations for the night. I went to sleep thinking how silly my apprehensions about stopping now seemed -- and how quickly family connections can be reestablished! I do hope to be returning the hospitality sometime soon -- and Vince and I are already talking about when we might be able to return and ride the Montana roads they marked out for us -- and with any luck, perhaps Chris will ride with us!
Day 9 June 16 - The Spectacular "Not-To-Be Missed" Beartooth
Route: West Yellowstone, Montana over Beartooth Pass to Columbus, Montana
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#42
Miles: 238
Total Time: 10:05
Total On Bikes: 6:00
Total Miles For Trip so far: 2378
Weather was spectacular for motorcycling -- mid 60's and sunny -- and we started back inside Yellowstone with high anticipation and expectation -- this time turning north around the circle headed toward the Northeastern exit. The start of the journey was EXACTLY like I had written about yesterday when we visited Old Faithful -- crazy drivers jamming on brakes and lines of cars clogging the roads. And while I must admit that looking at the many buffalo is interesting (they are an unusual looking creature) -- they are not endangered (you can buy buffalo jerky in the store) and there are so many to see in the park that in a short time it becomes routine to see them -- and the fast, unexpected braking and slowing ceases. On the other hand, the traffic jam caused by the viewing of a meandering bear was more understandable.
As everyone probably already knows, the scenery in Yellowstone is fantastic -- and I had little time or interest in checking my GPS routing as we traveled -- wrongly assuming that the turn off the circle to the Northeastern exit from the park to Beartooth could not be missed. Well, such was NOT the case. With Vince traveling ahead of me, I first noticed the GPS telling us to make a U-Turn about 4 miles beyond the turn we needed -- and perhaps because neither Vince or I had noticed any such turn -- I was, well, a little untrusting of the GPS's advice. After fiddling with the GPS controls for a bit, I finally decided I needed to pull over and check a paper map -- but my efforts to get Vince to notice me were unsuccessful -- as he too was fully engaged in the beauty of the scenery. He thought I was just stopping to take a picture -- as we had done before.
After figuring out that the GPS was indeed correct -- the next issue became -- what to do about it. Vince and I had made a plan to "meet outside the gate" if we got separated -- however now I realized that he would be waiting outside the wrong gate -- some 18 miles down the road. After some delay in the hopes that Vince would realize our routing error when I didn't show up (and because I needed a bathroom stop) -- I finally headed to the gate where Vince would be. In the meantime, Vince had figured out the mistake and headed back my direction. When we got together again -- we were both resolute in our thought that we weren't going to let a few extra miles (about 34 for the unplanned roundtrip) stand in the way of our desire to "do" the Beartooth. That turned out to be an excellent decision.
With the anticipation of a kid yelling "are we there yet" -- we began the ascent -- not even sure that the pass was open. Once again I felt like a pioneer traveler when we we visited at one rest stop with motorcyclists who had just come over the pass the opposite direction. They reported that the pass was open, roads were mostly dry, that the path was windy and cold -- and wonderfully beautiful. During the journey we learned that the pass had JUST reopened the day before because of the same weather system that had delayed/changed our trip plans had dumped snow on the mountain, caused an avalanche and resulted in its closing. We felt plenty fortunate to know that our extra 34 mile return -- and our delayed/changed travel plans -- would allow us to see the pass.
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#42
Miles: 238
Total Time: 10:05
Total On Bikes: 6:00
Total Miles For Trip so far: 2378
Ever since beginning the planning for this trip, traveling the Beartooth Highway outside the northeastern gate of Yellowstone -- over the Beartooth Pass -- had been one of my "hoped for" destinations. Its reputation among the riders I had talked to and the articles I had read, made it sound like a motorcycle touring paradise. Today was the day that I got to form my own opinion about "the Beartooth."
Weather was spectacular for motorcycling -- mid 60's and sunny -- and we started back inside Yellowstone with high anticipation and expectation -- this time turning north around the circle headed toward the Northeastern exit. The start of the journey was EXACTLY like I had written about yesterday when we visited Old Faithful -- crazy drivers jamming on brakes and lines of cars clogging the roads. And while I must admit that looking at the many buffalo is interesting (they are an unusual looking creature) -- they are not endangered (you can buy buffalo jerky in the store) and there are so many to see in the park that in a short time it becomes routine to see them -- and the fast, unexpected braking and slowing ceases. On the other hand, the traffic jam caused by the viewing of a meandering bear was more understandable.
As everyone probably already knows, the scenery in Yellowstone is fantastic -- and I had little time or interest in checking my GPS routing as we traveled -- wrongly assuming that the turn off the circle to the Northeastern exit from the park to Beartooth could not be missed. Well, such was NOT the case. With Vince traveling ahead of me, I first noticed the GPS telling us to make a U-Turn about 4 miles beyond the turn we needed -- and perhaps because neither Vince or I had noticed any such turn -- I was, well, a little untrusting of the GPS's advice. After fiddling with the GPS controls for a bit, I finally decided I needed to pull over and check a paper map -- but my efforts to get Vince to notice me were unsuccessful -- as he too was fully engaged in the beauty of the scenery. He thought I was just stopping to take a picture -- as we had done before.
After figuring out that the GPS was indeed correct -- the next issue became -- what to do about it. Vince and I had made a plan to "meet outside the gate" if we got separated -- however now I realized that he would be waiting outside the wrong gate -- some 18 miles down the road. After some delay in the hopes that Vince would realize our routing error when I didn't show up (and because I needed a bathroom stop) -- I finally headed to the gate where Vince would be. In the meantime, Vince had figured out the mistake and headed back my direction. When we got together again -- we were both resolute in our thought that we weren't going to let a few extra miles (about 34 for the unplanned roundtrip) stand in the way of our desire to "do" the Beartooth. That turned out to be an excellent decision.
With the anticipation of a kid yelling "are we there yet" -- we began the ascent -- not even sure that the pass was open. Once again I felt like a pioneer traveler when we we visited at one rest stop with motorcyclists who had just come over the pass the opposite direction. They reported that the pass was open, roads were mostly dry, that the path was windy and cold -- and wonderfully beautiful. During the journey we learned that the pass had JUST reopened the day before because of the same weather system that had delayed/changed our trip plans had dumped snow on the mountain, caused an avalanche and resulted in its closing. We felt plenty fortunate to know that our extra 34 mile return -- and our delayed/changed travel plans -- would allow us to see the pass.
The pass was even better than expected -- not necessarily as a motorcycle "sport" paradise this time because the roads/corners were still plenty dirty and the road condition (potholes and such) but definitely as a motorcycle "touring" paradise. The road twists continually both on the ascent and descent -- and we were treated to almost Disneyland like experience of traveling between high snow banks -- looking like snow tunnels with sun shining in the tops. We didn't find it particularly windy (a little more good luck) or cold (adequate gear/clothing probably helped in this regard). The descent was equally beautiful -- and the mountain views brought back memories of my trips to Switzerland.
Neither words nor pictures do the place justice -- so you'll just have plan a visit yourself...but if you're interested in looking a some of the pictures we took, you can see them here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=11zdnf23.5a51jnrn&x=0&y=-79uvpd&localeid=en_US
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=11zdnf23.5a51jnrn&x=0&y=-79uvpd&localeid=en_US
A few more miles down the road in found a great little motel in Columbus, Montana to spend the night -- with memories of a fantastic day of motorcycle touring!
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Random Thoughts - The Motorcycle Wave
Some readers may not be aware that there is a common camaradarie among most motorcycle riders that is displayed with a friendly wave to each other when passing. The wave is often shown with just two fingers (an acknowledgement of riding on TWO wheels) -- sometimes pointed to the ground (as if to say, keep the two wheels on the ground), but it can be any type of friendly acknowledgement of the passing rider. Not all motorcyclists practice it -- and as you might expect there are all kinds of opinions (as easy as a google search) on the topic -- who does it, who doesn't, why some do, why some don't. I'm not going to rehash all of that -- except to note that when I first returned to motorcycling in 2000, it was my observation that everyone gave the wave except about half of the Harley Davidson riders -- I always assumed that those who didn't wave had decided it didn't fit the image they wanted to project.
However this trip has reminded me of my observations from prior long distance trips -- that on the open road, almost all motorcyclists wave -- regardless of type or brand of motorcycle they are riding. So, my latest theory is that those who don't wave might be mostly riders who ride close to their home. Of course this isn't exclusive -- I'm sure there are some who just don't wave for other reasons -- or only wave to their same motorcycle brand -- and I don't know if my "open road" observation is shared by other riders -- but it does provide an interesting diversion of thought when I pass another rider who doesn't wave.
However this trip has reminded me of my observations from prior long distance trips -- that on the open road, almost all motorcyclists wave -- regardless of type or brand of motorcycle they are riding. So, my latest theory is that those who don't wave might be mostly riders who ride close to their home. Of course this isn't exclusive -- I'm sure there are some who just don't wave for other reasons -- or only wave to their same motorcycle brand -- and I don't know if my "open road" observation is shared by other riders -- but it does provide an interesting diversion of thought when I pass another rider who doesn't wave.
Day 8 Crazy Drivers in Yellowstone
Route: Ennis, MT to Yellowstone National Park
As soon as we entered the park I remembered prior visits when drivers made unexpected stops in the middle of the road whenever wildlife is noticed. This occurred again today -- even in places where there were special signs alerted travelers to an eagle nesting area and commanded "no stopping." So many were stopped, we initially thought there had been an accident. A little farther along we came upon the first of many herds of buffalo -- and again the drivers did stupid things in reckless disregard of everyone on the road. Later fox and elk caused the same behavior. I laughed to myself thinking these drivers were acting like they'd never seen an open range animal -- or been to a zoo for that matter. Thankfully we were able to get away from some of the crazy drivers and enjoy parts of the route without having to watch for brake lights -- but when we turned around and headed back to West Yellowstone -- we endured the same behavior. I'm guessing that it only gets worse as the summer brings more visitors! There is no doubt it is a beautiful park -- but the crowded roads of crazy behaving drivers is definitely a distraction. I yearned to be back on Idaho Highway 93 where we were nearly alone on the road.
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted herehttps://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#43
Miles: 164
Total Time: 6:55
Total On Bikes: 3:40
Total Miles For Trip so far: 2140
We were treated to another beautifully sunny day to make our way about 75 miles (mostly straight) from Ennis, Montana to the west entrance to Yellowstone Park. We had planned last night to make this an "easy" day and we did just that. We made our way to Old Faithful for our lunch stop -- and traveling a little farther into the park with a turnaround at the Continental Divide (here's a link to remind you of what the Continental Divide is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continental_divide)
As soon as we entered the park I remembered prior visits when drivers made unexpected stops in the middle of the road whenever wildlife is noticed. This occurred again today -- even in places where there were special signs alerted travelers to an eagle nesting area and commanded "no stopping." So many were stopped, we initially thought there had been an accident. A little farther along we came upon the first of many herds of buffalo -- and again the drivers did stupid things in reckless disregard of everyone on the road. Later fox and elk caused the same behavior. I laughed to myself thinking these drivers were acting like they'd never seen an open range animal -- or been to a zoo for that matter. Thankfully we were able to get away from some of the crazy drivers and enjoy parts of the route without having to watch for brake lights -- but when we turned around and headed back to West Yellowstone -- we endured the same behavior. I'm guessing that it only gets worse as the summer brings more visitors! There is no doubt it is a beautiful park -- but the crowded roads of crazy behaving drivers is definitely a distraction. I yearned to be back on Idaho Highway 93 where we were nearly alone on the road.
Once again thanks to Vince's mom's timeshare -- we are staying in a beautiful two bedroom condo here in West Yellowstone. Tomorrow's plan is to head back through the park and exit on the east entrance, head over the Beartooth Pass and get to our east-most part of this trip -- turning our bikes back west to begin the trip home.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Day 7 Curves, Characters and 125 Miles of Straight!
Route: Challis, ID to Ennis, MT
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#40
Miles: 270
Total Time: 10:28
Total On Bikes: 4:37
Total Miles For Trip so far: 1976
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#40
Miles: 270
Total Time: 10:28
Total On Bikes: 4:37
Total Miles For Trip so far: 1976
Ever since our retreat from the weather on our third day out which caused us to divert from our original plan, we've been making up the routing each night. One of the most important resources for picking the routing has been Benchmark Atlases that are the only map products that I've found that show sufficient detail to have a good idea of the "curviness" of a route AND whether the route is completely paved. Thankfully Benchmark produces these Atlases for many western and northwestern states including Idaho but have NOT yet produced one for Montana. Not having such a detailed map for Montana made planning for today's trip especially challenging -- and we likely ended up on more straight roads than we might have otherwise. Of course, it is also possible that in the area we needed to travel to get to Yellowstone -- there aren't any good motorcycle roads.
The long and short of all of this rambling is that after another 125 miles on the most superb motorcycle road (Highway 93), we turned directly east and did 125 miles of just long, tiring straight roads. Thankfully towards the end of the day we were treated to some interesting towns (Virginia City) and vistas as we arrived in Ennis, Montana. Good luck was with us when the first motel we stopped at had a very affordable room with two bedrooms and a kitchenette.
It has seemed that at each stop of the trip we have met some interestingly colorful characters that have kept us entertained long after our chance and brief meetings. It seems the bikes draw the attention -- many do begin the conversation on that topic -- but also Vince and I are both quick to engage when we need information. A couple of fun examples include: an old guy coming out of bank with a complete old-western gunbelt -- complete with bullets and firearm -- like we were on some movie set; and, a couple of kids age 5 and 8 that gave us the full news rundown on the town (two men fought last night; one man had a stroke; the races were in town and their kinfolk were the winning drivers, etc). Each stop seems to have a story -- and we've been enjoying the stopping almost as much as the riding.
Another motorcycle issue has popped up. Vince had expected to be able to complete the trip on his existing tires -- but over the last day or so he had noticed significant wear in center of his rear tire with only around 6000 miles on it. So at one stop Vince called ahead to a Ducati dealer in Missoula, Montana (the closest dealer) to arrange a tire replacement when we pass through that area.
Day 6 It Doesn't Get Any Better Than This
Route: New Meadows, ID to Boise, ID and then over the Sawtooth Mountain Range to Challis, ID
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#41
Miles: 316
Total Time: 10:36
Total On Bikes: 5:56
Total Miles For Trip so far: 1706
Today included the best motorcycle road I've been on -- so far -- Highway 75 from Stanley to Challis, ID. But the entire day was another spectacular day. I could have done without the downtown traffic and freeway traffic to get to the Ducati dealer in Boise -- but it was a necessary stop to get the permanent fix to Vince's "bung plug" problem. They had the part -- a stainless steel plug that cost around $11 -- and we were on our way. Actually the entire trip up Highway 21 out of Boise and connecting to Highway 75 was GREAT as we passed over the Sawtooth Mountain Range and were treated to wonderful roads and vistas.
Interestingly, their were few other cars/trucks on the road with us today and that got me to thinking that the cost of gas has likely had a good impact in this regard: we have seen very, very few motor homes and cars pulling trailers. In my prior long distance trips, the motor homes seemed to clog the twisty roads, but during this trip -- and especially today -- we saw very few of these gas hogs. I guess it shouldn't be so surprising when gas prices for regular were as high as $4.44 along the route.
We had postponed making reservations for this night of the trip until today -- and when I began to try to make reservations I quickly learned that there was NO availability near the area we had hoped to spend the night -- at about 250 miles. So, we got on the road to Boise without reservations -- deciding to await until we had our first mission accomplished -- getting the Ducati part. Once we arrived at the dealership and Vince was beginning his repair, I proceeded to a nearby shady spot of a Wendy's parking lot and set up "office" to find reservations. The picture below will show my mobile of
fice -- maps, computer with air card and cell phone. After several calls to learn of "no availability" -- I changed our destination to 50 miles farther -- and found a room. Little did we know at the time that this random change to go farther today would allow us to traverse such a perfect road (excellent conditions, right beside a beautiful river, high cliffs on either side, no traffic, sun on our backs, 70 degrees).
fice -- maps, computer with air card and cell phone. After several calls to learn of "no availability" -- I changed our destination to 50 miles farther -- and found a room. Little did we know at the time that this random change to go farther today would allow us to traverse such a perfect road (excellent conditions, right beside a beautiful river, high cliffs on either side, no traffic, sun on our backs, 70 degrees).
We arrived with both a satisfied and "spent" feeling from the concentration of the road to find that the motel "office" was in the very busy and loud bar. You can imagine our surprise when we were told we had no reservation and no rooms were available. As we talked through how this could happen -- and who I might have given my credit card and name to -- they finally figured out they were looking at the wrong page of the reservation list. In short order we were back in the lounge to feed our hunger, review the day over a beer and be entertained by the full house of local personalities and drunks.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Day 5 A Perfect Day for Sport-Touring
Route: Walla Walla, WA to New Meadows, ID
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#37
Miles: 256
Total Time: 10:05
Total On Bikes: 4:44
An absolutely spectacular day both in terms of weather (about 66 and sunny all day), scenery (tracking with the Salmon River on the east side of Hells Canyon recreation area) and roads (lots of wonderful "sweepers" (long, easy curves).
Had to make another stop at a Napa store within the first hour of the trip to get locking nut for the temporary "bung plug" that I wrote about yesterday -- as the temporary one had also started to loosen. But once that repair was done -- it held tightly the rest of the day.
We decided to stop the little town in New Meadows -- and pulled into a small motel that looks like it's been here for most of the century. The desk clerk told us about a "special" $8 steak at the local bar -- and it turned out to be quite a find -- complete with salad bar and baked potato. People watching the locals in the place was probably worth the $8 even without the steak.
We're 120 miles north of the Boise Ducati dealer -- where we are headed in the morning!
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#37
Miles: 256
Total Time: 10:05
Total On Bikes: 4:44
An absolutely spectacular day both in terms of weather (about 66 and sunny all day), scenery (tracking with the Salmon River on the east side of Hells Canyon recreation area) and roads (lots of wonderful "sweepers" (long, easy curves).
Had to make another stop at a Napa store within the first hour of the trip to get locking nut for the temporary "bung plug" that I wrote about yesterday -- as the temporary one had also started to loosen. But once that repair was done -- it held tightly the rest of the day.
We decided to stop the little town in New Meadows -- and pulled into a small motel that looks like it's been here for most of the century. The desk clerk told us about a "special" $8 steak at the local bar -- and it turned out to be quite a find -- complete with salad bar and baked potato. People watching the locals in the place was probably worth the $8 even without the steak.
We're 120 miles north of the Boise Ducati dealer -- where we are headed in the morning!
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Day 4 June 11 In search of a "Bung Plug"
Route: Burns, OR to Walla Walla, WA
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#38
Miles: 242
Total Time: 7:41
Total On Bikes: 4:28
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#38
Miles: 242
Total Time: 7:41
Total On Bikes: 4:28
Our diversion from our planned route put us on a circle trip back to Walla Walla -- and allowed us to escape any further rain. But we didn't escape the cold as Burns, Oregon sits on a high plateau -- somewhere around 4000 feet in elevation -- and much of the early part of our trip to Walla Walla today was similarly high AND cold. The temperature started out around 38 degrees and stayed below 45 most of the trip until we returned to lower elevations just before Pilot Rock/Pendleton, Oregon. We stopped a few times to add more layers (have you ever tried to put on a 2nd pair of socks while wearing full motorcycle gear and perched on the lip of a public toilet?). Our reward for enduring the cold was some beautiful high desert scenery and some exciting canyon rides on clean and perfectly slopped pavement.
But at our lunch stop, Vince discovered that his bike was missing an exhaust "bung plug." You'd think they'd come up with a better name for the little bolt that is screwed into the side of his Ducati after-market high performance exhaust. In the category of learning more than I really care to know -- it turns out that the bolt is designed to be removed and a sensor inserted when the bike is being tuned during maintenance. Apparently it had vibrated itself out -- and was lost on the road someplace....resulting in a louder exhaust and hot air escaping against Vince's pant leg as well as not being good for the bike. So, our attentions were diverted to finding a replacement -- which became a larger challenge than one might first expect for such an insignificant looking little bolt. First off...there is no Ducati dealer in these parts -- the closest being around 200 freeway miles away -- and the bolt is, well, unusual -- fine threaded metric. Several calls (gotta love internet access and cell phones) and a few stops (gotta love the GPS) -- yielded a very temporary fix -- thanks to a cruiser/Harley shop whose customers looked none to happy to have the bright yellow and red bikes pull up to THEIR shop -- but the owner was very helpful...and a Napa store actually had the better fitting temporary solution.
We arrived back at Vince's aunt/uncle-in-law's place in Walla Walla. This time his aunt/uncle were home and treated us to a wonderful dinner and relaxing evening of fun conversation.
Tomorrow's routing will take us one of three directions -- depending on which Ducati dealer has the needed bung plug -- the temporary fix is shown below.
But at our lunch stop, Vince discovered that his bike was missing an exhaust "bung plug." You'd think they'd come up with a better name for the little bolt that is screwed into the side of his Ducati after-market high performance exhaust. In the category of learning more than I really care to know -- it turns out that the bolt is designed to be removed and a sensor inserted when the bike is being tuned during maintenance. Apparently it had vibrated itself out -- and was lost on the road someplace....resulting in a louder exhaust and hot air escaping against Vince's pant leg as well as not being good for the bike. So, our attentions were diverted to finding a replacement -- which became a larger challenge than one might first expect for such an insignificant looking little bolt. First off...there is no Ducati dealer in these parts -- the closest being around 200 freeway miles away -- and the bolt is, well, unusual -- fine threaded metric. Several calls (gotta love internet access and cell phones) and a few stops (gotta love the GPS) -- yielded a very temporary fix -- thanks to a cruiser/Harley shop whose customers looked none to happy to have the bright yellow and red bikes pull up to THEIR shop -- but the owner was very helpful...and a Napa store actually had the better fitting temporary solution.
We arrived back at Vince's aunt/uncle-in-law's place in Walla Walla. This time his aunt/uncle were home and treated us to a wonderful dinner and relaxing evening of fun conversation.
Tomorrow's routing will take us one of three directions -- depending on which Ducati dealer has the needed bung plug -- the temporary fix is shown below.
Everything Looks Better From the Seat of a Motorcycle
Long distance motorcycle touring is all about adapting to change -- and not about:
1. comfort and convenience. Every change in weather conditions requires an adjustment in gear/clothing -- putting on layers -- taking off layers. It's no wonder that motorcycles are sometimes called "iron horses" because the riding experience is more akin to the horse riding experience of the early settlers. Sometimes when my mind wanders while riding the backroads, I think of the pioneers coming across the country facing every change of weather.
2. a convenient way to keep to a set plan/schedule. Every day brings unexpected stops and delays for clothing and other gear changes (face shields, sunglasses, gloves) and random events like bugs smashing against the face shield and obstructing vision (no easy press of a wiper button!). Every stop is arranged so that either the bike can be kept in view (so one can leave the helmet/gear with it) -- or requires extra time to secure the helmet and other gear (camera, ipod, cell phone, etc).
3. an easy way to visit attractions en route. For short trips, there is adequate storage space on most touring-equipped bikes to store away helmets, jackets, gloves, protective overpants and other items to take in various roadside attractions that require one to be away from the bike (museums, factory tours, etc). But for long distant touring, space is always at a premium -- usually leaving no place to hide-away all the clothing/gear. Therefore, all stopping for visits that require the bike to be out-of-view is, well, inconvenient and problematic.
But on the positive side, long distance touring is a fantastic way to enjoy the sights and smells of the trip. A burning fireplace, an open field of flowers, a roadside lumber mill, a forest, a farm -- everything has a smell that adds to the pleasure of the trip. As I ride, I often think of something that my son said when he and I were riding our motorcycles on the bridge over the Columbia River from Astoria, Oregon to Washington several years ago -- "everything always looks better from the seat of a motorcycle."
1. comfort and convenience. Every change in weather conditions requires an adjustment in gear/clothing -- putting on layers -- taking off layers. It's no wonder that motorcycles are sometimes called "iron horses" because the riding experience is more akin to the horse riding experience of the early settlers. Sometimes when my mind wanders while riding the backroads, I think of the pioneers coming across the country facing every change of weather.
2. a convenient way to keep to a set plan/schedule. Every day brings unexpected stops and delays for clothing and other gear changes (face shields, sunglasses, gloves) and random events like bugs smashing against the face shield and obstructing vision (no easy press of a wiper button!). Every stop is arranged so that either the bike can be kept in view (so one can leave the helmet/gear with it) -- or requires extra time to secure the helmet and other gear (camera, ipod, cell phone, etc).
3. an easy way to visit attractions en route. For short trips, there is adequate storage space on most touring-equipped bikes to store away helmets, jackets, gloves, protective overpants and other items to take in various roadside attractions that require one to be away from the bike (museums, factory tours, etc). But for long distant touring, space is always at a premium -- usually leaving no place to hide-away all the clothing/gear. Therefore, all stopping for visits that require the bike to be out-of-view is, well, inconvenient and problematic.
But on the positive side, long distance touring is a fantastic way to enjoy the sights and smells of the trip. A burning fireplace, an open field of flowers, a roadside lumber mill, a forest, a farm -- everything has a smell that adds to the pleasure of the trip. As I ride, I often think of something that my son said when he and I were riding our motorcycles on the bridge over the Columbia River from Astoria, Oregon to Washington several years ago -- "everything always looks better from the seat of a motorcycle."
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Day 3 June 10 McCall, ID to Burns, OR
Route: McCall, ID to Burns, OR
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#38
Miles: 241
Total Time: 6:51
Total On Bikes: 4:16
An unseasonable northwestern storm of rain/snow and wind brought the first change in our routing for the trip. All directions except back to Oregon were forecasted with rain and snow -- so we picked the only destination we could find that had a less-than-50% chance of rain -- and that was Burns, Oregon -- once the unofficial capital of the 19th century cattle empires that staked claim to this high desert area.
As we descended from the 6000+ foot elevation of McCall at around 10:30am, light snow showers began. Thankfully we were able to get to lower elevations quickly and left the snow behind. The skies were cloudy all day and we could see rain showers on the horizon in every direction but we were blessed with almost no precipitation falling on us. However, it was a COLD day with temperatures running under 50 degrees all day. At each stop we added more layers of clothing and sang the praises of our heated grips. The route was more straight than either of us enjoy -- but we did get some canyon carving in at pretty high speeds.
Arriving in Burns we ran into several other motorcyclists who had similarly been diverted from their plans by snow and sleet -- and found themselves in Burns for the night.
An unexpected benefit of this route diversion is the opportunity to take another scenic route from here to Walla Walla tomorrow, Oregon Route 395 which was not on our original plan. From here on out we are making it up as we go -- but still loving every minute of the riding. We marvel at every little town we travel though -- wonder at what keeps each community surviving.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Day 2 June 9 Through Hells Canyon to McCall, ID
Starting the Day:
Hells Canyon Overlook:
Route: Walla Walla, WA to McCall, ID via Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#35
Miles: 285
Total Time: 10:25
Total Time On Bikes: 5:50
After a leisurely coffee/breakfast in the luxury of the private residence mentioned in the last post, we headed out around 9:30am under the overcast skies -- and rain reports on our route through Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, North America's deepest gorge at 7913 feet at its deepest point. The gorge surrounds what remains of the raging Snake River through 71 miles to the Columbia River.
Today was a day of many changes -- in elevation, in road condition and in weather...but the roads, even when wet and sometimes slick, were wonderfully fun and beautiful. We really didn't get much rain until the last 1/2 hour of the trip -- and what sprinkles we did get were separated by long periods of dry -- even blue skies. But in the last 20 miles we experienced quite a rain storm even as the sun shone behind us -- resulting in a most beautiful double rainbow that arched above us during a time when we could see where it seemed to touch the ground on each side of us. The bursts of color, particularly where it touched the earth were so brilliant that I can understand the folklore behind the "gold at the end of the rainbow." And, as had been the condition all day, when we arrived in McCall, Idaho -- a modern resort area -- we immediately ducked into the nearest grocery store during a downpour so we could find some eats to take to our prearranged condo (thanks to Vince's mom's Worldmark time share!). When we exited the grocery store 10 minutes later, the downpour had been replaced by brilliant sunshine.
Earlier in the day we had lunched at Joseph, Idaho -- an artsy little community that looked very new and modern. Upon leaving there and entering Hells Canyon, we blew past a sign that said something about a road being closed -- and within a few miles, as the road condition worsened, we stopped to question whether we might be on the road that was closed -- the only direct route through the Canyon. Thankfully, 3 motorcyclist (out of British Columbia) arrived while we were pondering our plans -- and they had concluded by a more careful inspection of the sign that the road we were on was not impacted by the closure. We joined them in the journey to the Hells Canyon overlook which is pictured above.
As with all scenery photos -- particularly those taken during inclement weather -- there is no capturing the majestic beauty of the land. Such was the case again today -- as we enjoyed great views and many miles adjacent to roaring water -- knowing that our memories of the beauty would have to suffice.
With the time change (1 hour ahead), we arrived at our destination condo at around 7:30pm -- immediately threw together a quick spaghetti dinner from the fixings we had picked up -- and enjoyed a relaxing dinner while we pondered our routing which already needed to be changed because of a cold front that had moved into the Northwest. We finally got into bed after coming up with a new plan to try to get south of the bad weather tomorrow -- and then circle back into our planned route.
Hells Canyon Overlook:
Route: Walla Walla, WA to McCall, ID via Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.
GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#35
Miles: 285
Total Time: 10:25
Total Time On Bikes: 5:50
After a leisurely coffee/breakfast in the luxury of the private residence mentioned in the last post, we headed out around 9:30am under the overcast skies -- and rain reports on our route through Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, North America's deepest gorge at 7913 feet at its deepest point. The gorge surrounds what remains of the raging Snake River through 71 miles to the Columbia River.
Today was a day of many changes -- in elevation, in road condition and in weather...but the roads, even when wet and sometimes slick, were wonderfully fun and beautiful. We really didn't get much rain until the last 1/2 hour of the trip -- and what sprinkles we did get were separated by long periods of dry -- even blue skies. But in the last 20 miles we experienced quite a rain storm even as the sun shone behind us -- resulting in a most beautiful double rainbow that arched above us during a time when we could see where it seemed to touch the ground on each side of us. The bursts of color, particularly where it touched the earth were so brilliant that I can understand the folklore behind the "gold at the end of the rainbow." And, as had been the condition all day, when we arrived in McCall, Idaho -- a modern resort area -- we immediately ducked into the nearest grocery store during a downpour so we could find some eats to take to our prearranged condo (thanks to Vince's mom's Worldmark time share!). When we exited the grocery store 10 minutes later, the downpour had been replaced by brilliant sunshine.
Earlier in the day we had lunched at Joseph, Idaho -- an artsy little community that looked very new and modern. Upon leaving there and entering Hells Canyon, we blew past a sign that said something about a road being closed -- and within a few miles, as the road condition worsened, we stopped to question whether we might be on the road that was closed -- the only direct route through the Canyon. Thankfully, 3 motorcyclist (out of British Columbia) arrived while we were pondering our plans -- and they had concluded by a more careful inspection of the sign that the road we were on was not impacted by the closure. We joined them in the journey to the Hells Canyon overlook which is pictured above.
As with all scenery photos -- particularly those taken during inclement weather -- there is no capturing the majestic beauty of the land. Such was the case again today -- as we enjoyed great views and many miles adjacent to roaring water -- knowing that our memories of the beauty would have to suffice.
With the time change (1 hour ahead), we arrived at our destination condo at around 7:30pm -- immediately threw together a quick spaghetti dinner from the fixings we had picked up -- and enjoyed a relaxing dinner while we pondered our routing which already needed to be changed because of a cold front that had moved into the Northwest. We finally got into bed after coming up with a new plan to try to get south of the bad weather tomorrow -- and then circle back into our planned route.
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Day 1 June 8 Brief Ride Report - Home to Walla Walla, WA
Route: Home to Walla Walla, WA via Mt. Hood (Government Camp), Maupin, Shaniko, Antelope, Fossil, Condon, Heppner, Pilot Rock, Pendleton. GPS Tracks for the trip are posted here:https://tworoads.shutterfly.com/pictures/40#36
Miles: 366
Total Time: 10:40
Total Time On Bikes: 6:53
Started out around 9:15am -- perfect start to a motorcycle trip: 54 degrees and overcast. By the time we got to Mt. Hood, the sun was shining and it stayed that way for the day. Temperatures eventually topped out around 72 degrees. Fantastic roads/scenery, perfect weather, excellent stops. Didn't stop for pictures -- but enjoyed a wonderful ride and great stops. Arrived in Walla Walla -- enjoyed a fun Mexican dinner and ready to check the weather for tomorrow and get some sleep and do it all over again tomorrow.
Had lunch in the almost abandoned town of Antelope (the sign said population: 37) -- and was reminded of the 1980's situation where a cult leader Bhagwan Rajneesh bought a ranch here, took over the city and made efforts to take over the county -- as his cult grew to 4000 members. You can get a great, quick review of this entire episode that captured the national news at the time here: http://www.a2zgorge.info/community/towns/antelope.htm . Today the town is just another "ghost" town destination for travelers right in the midst of some wonderfully twisty roads in a high desert environment.
As far as lodging -- Vince's wife's aunt and uncle allowed us to stay in their spacious and beautiful home even though they were out-of-town. We made the mistake of finding dinner before coming to the house -- where we found a wonderfully welcoming note pointing out all the food and drink available for us. We lounged in front of the flat screen to watch the weather channel to scope out our ride through Hells Canyon after leaving here -- and enjoyed a leisurely morning coffee in the comfort of their home. A great place to end a perfect first day -- and to start our second day on the road.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Motorcycle Riders - Not An Homogeneous Group
Although to those outside the hobby/sport, motorcycle riders tend to be lumped together without recognition of the wide differences among riders and motorcycles. The substrata of the sport of those who ride on pavement (as opposed to "dirt") includes everything from "posers" to "ironbutts," as described below:
1. Posers: Those whose rides generally consist of local, short rides to the local bars/taverns to drink (more than 50% of all motorcycle accidents involve drinking/driving). These riders are commonly outfitted in fashion leathers (not protective leathers) -- often in just jeans and T-shirts; inadequate helmets (studies have shown that in 35% of motorcycle accidents -- most of the impact has occurred around the face); and, riding motorcycles intended to attract attention by their loud pipes at the expense of everyone's hearing.
2. Ironbutts: Those who pride themselves in riding long distances within short time frames. The entry level for this type of riding is a ride of 1000 miles in 24 hours (called the "Saddlesore"). The "Ironbutt Association" boasts 34,000 members (see http://www.ironbutt.com/) and has special rules for each level of achievement -- including it's ultimate annual "Iron Butt Rally" that involves competitive riding of 11,000 miles in 11 days.
As you might expect, "posers" don't recognize themselves as "posers" but "ironbutts" are very proud of their "achievements."
Vince and I fit in neither of these categories -- and in the motorcycling world would be characterized as "sport-touring" riders. Vince more on the "sport" end as he rides a high performance Ducati -- a name recognized the world over for it's racing performance. I would be identified more on the "touring" end of the spectrum because of my ride -- widely considered one of the top luxury touring bikes. We both ride as do most all "sport-touring riders" with full protective jackets, full-face helmets, specially made calf-high motorcycle boots, and protective/padded "over-pants" over our jeans. Our identification as "sport-touring" riders would also be evident by the roads we choose (see my previous post). Speed and endurance distances are never a priority.
Now would probably be a good time to also mention riding compatibility. It's more challenging than one might expect to find compatible riding partners because compatibility has less to do with one's riding "style" and more to do with one's desire/willingness to stop! It involves finding someone who enjoys a similar pace for the trip -- both in speed and in wanting or needing to take rest/coffee/eat breaks. As a general rule, I've found that if I'm on the bike for more than 1 1/2 hours without stopping long enough to get my helmet off -- whether for a bathroom break, something to eat/drink, or just to enjoy a view -- I'm not getting the maximum pleasure out of the trip. Stopping is just as important to me as riding. Thankfully, Vince and I have ridden enough together to have that compatibility -- and it makes for very pleasant rides -- and stops.
1. Posers: Those whose rides generally consist of local, short rides to the local bars/taverns to drink (more than 50% of all motorcycle accidents involve drinking/driving). These riders are commonly outfitted in fashion leathers (not protective leathers) -- often in just jeans and T-shirts; inadequate helmets (studies have shown that in 35% of motorcycle accidents -- most of the impact has occurred around the face); and, riding motorcycles intended to attract attention by their loud pipes at the expense of everyone's hearing.
2. Ironbutts: Those who pride themselves in riding long distances within short time frames. The entry level for this type of riding is a ride of 1000 miles in 24 hours (called the "Saddlesore"). The "Ironbutt Association" boasts 34,000 members (see http://www.ironbutt.com/) and has special rules for each level of achievement -- including it's ultimate annual "Iron Butt Rally" that involves competitive riding of 11,000 miles in 11 days.
As you might expect, "posers" don't recognize themselves as "posers" but "ironbutts" are very proud of their "achievements."
Vince and I fit in neither of these categories -- and in the motorcycling world would be characterized as "sport-touring" riders. Vince more on the "sport" end as he rides a high performance Ducati -- a name recognized the world over for it's racing performance. I would be identified more on the "touring" end of the spectrum because of my ride -- widely considered one of the top luxury touring bikes. We both ride as do most all "sport-touring riders" with full protective jackets, full-face helmets, specially made calf-high motorcycle boots, and protective/padded "over-pants" over our jeans. Our identification as "sport-touring" riders would also be evident by the roads we choose (see my previous post). Speed and endurance distances are never a priority.
Now would probably be a good time to also mention riding compatibility. It's more challenging than one might expect to find compatible riding partners because compatibility has less to do with one's riding "style" and more to do with one's desire/willingness to stop! It involves finding someone who enjoys a similar pace for the trip -- both in speed and in wanting or needing to take rest/coffee/eat breaks. As a general rule, I've found that if I'm on the bike for more than 1 1/2 hours without stopping long enough to get my helmet off -- whether for a bathroom break, something to eat/drink, or just to enjoy a view -- I'm not getting the maximum pleasure out of the trip. Stopping is just as important to me as riding. Thankfully, Vince and I have ridden enough together to have that compatibility -- and it makes for very pleasant rides -- and stops.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Trip Planning -- It's Not About The Destination
It is the most common of sayings for motorcycle riders: "It's not about the destination, it's about the ride!" Seems like this would be a good mantra for life itself! It is especially true of this trip -- as the only "destination" is the goal of riding as many great "motorcycle" roads as we can ride in the time available. What constitutes a "great motorcycle road." Well, Vince and I share the view that for OUR type of motorcycle riding (more on motorcycling types in another posting), the great roads are ones that offer (1) all paved roads, (2) inspiring scenic vistas, and (3) the maximum numbers of curves per mile. We avoid freeways at all costs -- in fact a sub-goal of this trip would be to complete the entire route of around 3000 miles without having to ride on a freeway.
The time available is about two weeks -- and from prior experiences we know that we want to try to limit our daily riding to about 300 miles or less. Some days the distance will be much less because as the daily average speed/distance goes up, the "great motorcycle road" quality goes down.
Both Vince and I read motorcycle publications that regularly review various motorcycling routes -- and there are a few good web sites that provide rider's route reviews -- but I tend to first look at two sources to begin my search for good routes: (1) Reader's Digest 120 Most Scenic Drives in America, and (2) National Geographic's Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways (third edition covering 275 "best drives in the US.)" In addition, an excellent online source is America's Byways and USDA Forest Service Byways -- both located at http://bywaysonline.org/ .
So, I started building a proposed route for this trip by first highlighting the identified scenic roads within a 1500 mile radius of our homes (covering the northwestern states of WA, OR, ID, WY, MT and CO). You'll see these routes highlighted in yellow and green on the following map. Then we proceeded to plot a route that maximized these routes -- and where necessary added in routing from other sources. The blue route in the following map became our beginning plan.
Of course this is all subject to change -- even on a daily basis -- because another of our tenets for a "great motorcycle road" is one that is dry -- so we'll be watching the weather closely and altering our routing when we can to avoid riding in the rain.
The time available is about two weeks -- and from prior experiences we know that we want to try to limit our daily riding to about 300 miles or less. Some days the distance will be much less because as the daily average speed/distance goes up, the "great motorcycle road" quality goes down.
Both Vince and I read motorcycle publications that regularly review various motorcycling routes -- and there are a few good web sites that provide rider's route reviews -- but I tend to first look at two sources to begin my search for good routes: (1) Reader's Digest 120 Most Scenic Drives in America, and (2) National Geographic's Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways (third edition covering 275 "best drives in the US.)" In addition, an excellent online source is America's Byways and USDA Forest Service Byways -- both located at http://bywaysonline.org/ .
So, I started building a proposed route for this trip by first highlighting the identified scenic roads within a 1500 mile radius of our homes (covering the northwestern states of WA, OR, ID, WY, MT and CO). You'll see these routes highlighted in yellow and green on the following map. Then we proceeded to plot a route that maximized these routes -- and where necessary added in routing from other sources. The blue route in the following map became our beginning plan.
Of course this is all subject to change -- even on a daily basis -- because another of our tenets for a "great motorcycle road" is one that is dry -- so we'll be watching the weather closely and altering our routing when we can to avoid riding in the rain.
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